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3 Kitchen Storage Projects Scarborough ME

Measure the frame opening and cut the base (A) 1/4 in. narrower (Fig. A, page 67). Make the drawers 1 in. narrower than the opening between the partitions. Cut and assemble the base assembly (A, B) and drawer parts (C, D, E). Sand and apply two coats of finish to the base and drawers.

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware #33
(207) 761-4402
200 Gorham Rd
South Portland, ME

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Maine Mall S/C
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400 Maine Mall Rd
S Portland, ME
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Sears Stores
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Mon:9-21
Tue:9-21
Wed:9-21
Thu:9-21
Fri:9-21
Sat:9-21
Sun:10-18
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Mon:9-21
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Wed:9-21
Thu:9-21
Fri:9-21
Sat:9-21
Sun:10-18

Drillen True Value Hardware
(207) 799-4133
460 Cottage Rd
South Portland, ME
 
Lowe's
(207) 482-2800
1058 Brighton Avenue
Portland, ME
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M-SA 6 am - 10 pm
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Lowe's
(207) 571-6032
220 Mariner Way
Biddeford, ME
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Lowe's
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1000 Gallery Boulevard
Scarborough, ME
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Mill Creek Shopping Center
South Portland, ME
 
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(207) 854-5868
30 Central St
Westbrook, ME
 
Elm Street Do it Best Hardware
(207) 284-2228
453 Elm St
Biddeford, ME
 
420 Alfred St
(207) 283-2423
Ste 178
Biddeford, ME
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Hometown Dealers
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Mon:9-19
Tue:9-19
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Sat:9-18
Sun:11-16
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Mon:9-19
Tue:9-19
Wed:9-19
Thu:9-19
Fri:9-19
Sat:9-18
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3 Kitchen Storage Projects

3 Kitchen Storage Projects

Squeeze more space from your cabinets with customized roll-outs.

by Eric Smith and David Radke

It may seem like a paradox, but even kitchens that are overflowing have underutilized space. Many base cabinets are only half used, because the back is inaccessible, stuffed with long-forgotten items you can’t see unless you get down on your knees with a flashlight. Here’s a set of pull-outs that bring everything within reach. 

Under-Sink Storage

To begin, measure the areas of open space around the plumbing. You may only be able to put a single pull-out on one side, or you may have to shorten them or build them around pipes coming up through the base.

Materials 

To make the trays shown here, you’ll need a half sheet of 3/4-in. hardwood plywood, 2-ft. x 2-ft. of 1/2-in. plywood, 17 lineal ft. of 1-in. x 4-in. maple, 2 lineal ft. of 1-in. x 6-in. maple, four pairs of 20-in. full-extension ball-bearing slides, a box of 1-5/8-in. screws, wood glue and construction adhesive.

Bottom Pull-Outs

Measure the frame opening and cut the base (A) 1/4 in. narrower (Fig. A, page 67). Make the drawers 1 in. narrower than the opening between the partitions. Cut and assemble the base assembly (A, B) and drawer parts (C, D, E). Sand and apply two coats of finish to the base and drawers. 

Set the drawer slides on 3/4-in. spacers flush with the front edge of the partition (B). Screw them to the partitions; then pull out the drawer members. Set the drawer members on the same 3/4-in. spacers to create the proper bottom clearance for the tray, and screw them to the sides of the trays flush to the fronts. Screw the base assembly to the bottom of the cabinet (Photo 1). Slide in  the drawers. 

Side-Mounted Pull-Outs

Make the side support cleats (K) so they sit flush or slightly proud of the face frame. Check for hinges that might get in the way of the pull-out tray. Assemble the trays with glue and screws. Apply finish. 

Attach the slides and mount them in the cabinet (Photos 2 and 3). Scuff the cabinet side with sandpaper and use construction adhesive and screws to hold the cleats. Cabinet sides are often finished, so screws alone may not hold well.

Bottom Pull-Outs

Photo 1: Build and install a base assembly for the bottom pull-outs. Center the base assembly in the cabinet just behind the hinges. Align the front edge with the face frame and screw it to the bottom of the cabinet. 

Photo 2: Install the slides on the side pull-out trays. Center a 3-1/2-in. template on the cleat and the tall side of each tray and trace the edges. Center the mounting holes of the slides on these lines.

Photo 3: Attach the support cleats to the side of the cabinet using screws and construction adhesive. Use a temporary plywood spacer to hold each cleat in position.

Mini-Pantry

These pull-outs bring boxes, jars and cans within easy reach.

Click here to read the rest of the article from American Woodworker