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Goof-Proof Crown Molding Dover NH

Cutting miters is very straightforward (see photos, right). For convenience, I always hold the box on the saw's left side. For the best results, screw the box to the miter saw's fence. For some cuts, the box's long side goes against the fence.

Woodcraft - Portsmouth, NH
(603) 433-6116
25 Fox Run Road
Newington, NH

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Warren's Hardware
(603) 664-9300
585 Calef Hwy, Unit 3
Barrington, NH
 
Jacksons True Value Hardware
(207) 439-1133
56 Us Route 1 Bypass
Kittery, ME
 
Lowe's
(603) 373-2158
1440 Greenland Road
Greenland, NH
Hours
M-SA 6 am - 10 pm
SU 8 am - 8 pm

Lowe's
(603) 693-3000
36 Fresh River Road
Epping, NH
Hours
M-SA 6 am - 10 pm
SU 8 am - 8 pm

Maine Coast Lumber, Inc.
(800) 899-1664
17 White Birch Lane
York,, ME

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Lowe's
(603) 833-4000
160 Washington Street, Suite 800
Rochester, NH
Hours
M-SA 6 am - 10 pm
SU 8 am - 8 pm

Fox Run Mall
(603) 431-9600
50 Fox Run Rd Ste 74
Newington, NH
Store Hours
Sears Stores
Store Type
Sears Stores
Hours
Mon:9-21
Tue:9-21
Wed:9-21
Thu:9-21
Fri:9-21
Sat:9-21
Sun:10-18
Store Features
Mon:9-21
Tue:9-21
Wed:9-21
Thu:9-21
Fri:9-21
Sat:9-21
Sun:10-18

York Corner True Value
(207) 363-7090
441 Us Rt 1 S
York, ME
 
Heritage True Value Hardware
(603) 942-7741
1382 1st New Hampshire Tpke
Northwood, NH
 
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Goof-Proof Crown Molding

Goof-Proof Crown Molding

By Tom Caspar

Cutting perfect miters on crown molding can be a real challenge. Make a mistake and a lot of expensive wood goes to waste. This method, which uses a shop-made miter box, puts the molding in its “natural” position, the way it will be placed on your project. It’s easy to set up the saw and tweak the miter’s angle for inside and outside joints. The saw’s blade stays at 90 degrees to the table, so you don’t have any complicated compound cuts to set up.

Start by building the miter box (see photo, below). Don’t use screws; you don’t want to accidentally cut into one. Use a combination square to figure out how wide the box’s pieces must be to hold the molding in its natural, upright position. The bottom piece’s width equals the molding’s depth when it’s installed. The side pieces’ width equals the molding’s height when it’s installed plus the thickness of the bottom piece. Cut these pieces about 12 in. long and leave the ends square for now. Glue the box together; then miter the ends. Label each corner.

Cutting miters is very straightforward (see photos, right). For convenience, I always hold the box on the saw’s left side. For the best results, screw the box to the miter saw’s fence. For some cuts, the box’s long side goes against the fence. For others, the short side goes against the fence. Using a high-tooth count blade will produce a very smooth cut, with no tearout on the molding’s face. 

This method won’t work on all saws and all crown moldings. Success depends on the molding’s height and the saw’s capacity. Many tall moldings can be cut this way using a 12-in. saw, but a 10-in. saw may not have adequate clearance.

Build the miter box from three pieces of plywood. Label the corners to indicate how the crown molding is oriented for each miter cut.

Place the molding’s top edge against the label identifying the cut and you can’t go wrong.

This story originally appeared in  American Woodworker Dec/Jan 2007, issue #126.

Source information may have changed since the original publication date.

Dec/Jan 2007, issue #126

Purchase this back issue.

Click here to read the rest of the article from American Woodworker