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Goof-Proof Crown Molding Park Hills MO

Cutting miters is very straightforward (see photos, right). For convenience, I always hold the box on the saw's left side. For the best results, screw the box to the miter saw's fence. For some cuts, the box's long side goes against the fence.

Holekamp Do it center
(573) 358-3371
317 N Division
Bonne Terre, MO
 
Farmington Building Supply Co.
(573) 756-5705
306 East Karsch Blvd.
Farmington, MO
 
Plummer's Hardware
(573) 756-6001
101 E Liberty
Farmington, MO
 
Fastenal- Farmington
573-756-0368
424 N. Washington St Farmington, MO, 63640
Farmington, MO
 
Dickey Bub True Value
(573) 436-1177
708 High Street E
Potosi, MO
 
Lowe's
(573) 701-8200
625 West Karsch Boulevard
Farmington, MO
Hours
M-SA 7 am - 9 pm
SU 9 am - 7 pm

LOWE'S OF FARMINGTON, MO
573 701-8200
625 WEST KARSCH BOULEVARD FARMINGTON, MO, 63640
Farmington, MO
 
Maple Valley Ctr
(573) 760-1502
738 Market St
Farmington, MO
Store Hours
Hometown Dealers
Store Type
Hometown Dealers
Hours
Mon:9-18
Tue:9-18
Wed:9-18
Thu:9-18
Fri:9-18
Sat:9-18
Sun:11-16
Store Features
Mon:9-18
Tue:9-18
Wed:9-18
Thu:9-18
Fri:9-18
Sat:9-18
Sun:11-16

ABC Supply Co.,Inc/Farmington
573-431-7076
190 Busenbark Place Farmington, MO, 63640
Farmington, MO
 
Boyer Do it Best Lumber
(573) 438-5461
208 West High Street
Potosi, MO
 

Goof-Proof Crown Molding

Goof-Proof Crown Molding

By Tom Caspar

Cutting perfect miters on crown molding can be a real challenge. Make a mistake and a lot of expensive wood goes to waste. This method, which uses a shop-made miter box, puts the molding in its “natural” position, the way it will be placed on your project. It’s easy to set up the saw and tweak the miter’s angle for inside and outside joints. The saw’s blade stays at 90 degrees to the table, so you don’t have any complicated compound cuts to set up.

Start by building the miter box (see photo, below). Don’t use screws; you don’t want to accidentally cut into one. Use a combination square to figure out how wide the box’s pieces must be to hold the molding in its natural, upright position. The bottom piece’s width equals the molding’s depth when it’s installed. The side pieces’ width equals the molding’s height when it’s installed plus the thickness of the bottom piece. Cut these pieces about 12 in. long and leave the ends square for now. Glue the box together; then miter the ends. Label each corner.

Cutting miters is very straightforward (see photos, right). For convenience, I always hold the box on the saw’s left side. For the best results, screw the box to the miter saw’s fence. For some cuts, the box’s long side goes against the fence. For others, the short side goes against the fence. Using a high-tooth count blade will produce a very smooth cut, with no tearout on the molding’s face. 

This method won’t work on all saws and all crown moldings. Success depends on the molding’s height and the saw’s capacity. Many tall moldings can be cut this way using a 12-in. saw, but a 10-in. saw may not have adequate clearance.

Build the miter box from three pieces of plywood. Label the corners to indicate how the crown molding is oriented for each miter cut.

Place the molding’s top edge against the label identifying the cut and you can’t go wrong.

This story originally appeared in  American Woodworker Dec/Jan 2007, issue #126.

Source information may have changed since the original publication date.

Dec/Jan 2007, issue #126

Purchase this back issue.

Click here to read the rest of the article from American Woodworker