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Kitchen Stool Scarborough ME

It is not that hard to make kitchen stools by yourself. The legs and stretchers are made from strong, durable beech. The seat is made from cherry and reminds me of old, soft leather

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware #33
(207) 761-4402
200 Gorham Rd
South Portland, ME

Data Provided by:
Maine Mall S/C
(207) 828-9314
400 Maine Mall Rd
S Portland, ME
Store Hours
Sears Stores
Store Type
Sears Stores
Hours
Mon:9-21
Tue:9-21
Wed:9-21
Thu:9-21
Fri:9-21
Sat:9-21
Sun:10-18
Store Features
Mon:9-21
Tue:9-21
Wed:9-21
Thu:9-21
Fri:9-21
Sat:9-21
Sun:10-18

Shoppers True Value Hdwe
(207) 799-6191
Mill Creek Shopping Center
South Portland, ME
 
Sportsmans True Value Hardware
(207) 854-5868
30 Central St
Westbrook, ME
 
Elm Street Do it Best Hardware
(207) 284-2228
453 Elm St
Biddeford, ME
 
Lowe's
(207) 883-1309
1000 Gallery Boulevard
Scarborough, ME
Hours
M-SA 6 am - 10 pm
SU 8 am - 7 pm

Drillen True Value Hardware
(207) 799-4133
460 Cottage Rd
South Portland, ME
 
Lowe's
(207) 482-2800
1058 Brighton Avenue
Portland, ME
Hours
M-SA 6 am - 10 pm
SU 8 am - 7 pm

420 Alfred St
(207) 283-2423
Ste 178
Biddeford, ME
Store Hours
Hometown Dealers
Store Type
Hometown Dealers
Hours
Mon:9-19
Tue:9-19
Wed:9-19
Thu:9-19
Fri:9-19
Sat:9-18
Sun:11-16
Store Features
Mon:9-19
Tue:9-19
Wed:9-19
Thu:9-19
Fri:9-19
Sat:9-18
Sun:11-16

Lowe's
(207) 571-6032
220 Mariner Way
Biddeford, ME
Hours
M-SA 6 am - 10 pm
SU 8 am - 8 pm

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Kitchen Stool

Kitchen Stool

Round legs without a latheby Seth Keller

Download the PDF.

Few stools are as clean and elegant as this one. I built it with splayed legs to provide a stable footing. The multi-level rungs offer a variety of foot perches to satisfy just about anybody, no matter how short or tall they are. I topped it off with a gently scooped seat that’s comfortable enough to permit lingering over a satisfying meal. I used contrasting wood for visual interest. I really like how the light-colored legs peek up through the dark seat. The legs and stretchers are made from strong, durable beech. The seat is made from cherry and reminds me of old, soft leather.

Photo 1: Begin building the stool by laying out mortises on the legs. The mortises are offset with one set higher than the other. Clamp the legs together and lay out all the high mortises first. I like to shade each mortise to avoid mistakes. 

Photo 2: To layout the lower mortises, rotate the two outside legs 90-degrees away from the center. Then roll the two center legs away from the center as well. This automatically positions the correct face of each leg. 

Photo 3: Cut the angled mortises with a jig and a plunge router. To position the leg, line up the top of the mortise with the top of the index notch on the jig.

Photo 4: Round over all four corners on the legs. When you’re done, they’ll almost look like they were turned. A featherboard maintains consistent pressure against the fence. 

Photo 5: Round over the ends of each leg. Hold the leg tight against a stop block as you feed it into the bit. When the leg contacts the bearing, rotate it slowly to complete the roundover. 

Photo 6: Mill roundovers on long lengths of rung stock. Cut the rungs and seat stretchers to length afterward.  This is more efficient and safer than shaping short lengths. Featherboards produce a clean, consistent cut.

Photo 7: Shape the seat stretchers on the bandsaw.  It’s best to make two cuts. Cut the short angle first, then make the long straight cut.

Photo 8: Cut the round tenons on the seat stretchers. When the cut hits the wide part of the stretcher, let it ride on the bearing until it contacts the fence on the outfeed side. 

Photo 9: Glue up the base in sections.  Have all of your parts labeled and laid out in sequence. Glue up the two halves with the three mortises first. When they’re dry, glue the whole stool together with the seat stretcher and remaining rungs. 

Photo 10: Clamp up the base on a flat surface. Angled blocks will prevent the clamps from slipping. Use a straightedge to make sure the wide section on the seat stretchers lies flat. 

Photo 11: Bore leg holes through the seat blank. Clamp the blank to a sacrificial table to prevent blow out. Cut the curved sides on the bandsaw after drilling the holes.

Photo 12: Scoop the seat with a rout...

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