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Making Cathedral Doors Storrs Mansfield CT

There are a few specialized tools you must have to make cathedral doors. Start with a suitable router table. It should be equipped with a 2-hp or higher variable-speed router that accepts 1/2-in.-shank router bits. You’ll also need a bandsaw or jigsaw for cutting the curves and a set of door-making router bits.

The Home Depot
(860)465-5631
418 Boston Post Road
Windham, CT
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-9:00pm
Sun: 8:00am-7:00pm

The Home Depot
(860)376-2047
142 River Road
Lisbon, CT
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-10:00pm
Sun: 8:00am-8:00pm

The O. L. Willard Co Inc
(860) 429-2792
1753 Storrs Road
Storrs, CT
 
Willimantic - Auth Hometown
(860) 423-8001
86 Storrs Rd
Willimantic, CT
Store Hours
Hometown Dealers
Store Type
Hometown Dealers
Hours
Mon:9-20
Tue:9-20
Wed:9-20
Thu:9-20
Fri:9-20
Sat:9-18
Sun:11-16
Store Features
Mon:9-20
Tue:9-20
Wed:9-20
Thu:9-20
Fri:9-20
Sat:9-18
Sun:11-16

Star Hardware
(860) 872-4675
642 Tolland Stage
Tolland, CT
 
Woodcraft - Manchester/Hartford, CT
(860) 647-0303
249 Spencer Street
Manchester, CT

Data Provided by:
GK Woodworking LLC (Monthly Specials - see below)
(860) 608-7514
56 Browning Rd
Griswold, CT

Data Provided by:
The O. L. Willard Co Inc
(860) 423-1666
196 Valley Street
Willimantic, CT
 
N Windham - Sears Hardware Stores
(860) 423-9041
29 N Ridge Dr
North Windham, CT
Store Hours
Hardware Stores
Store Type
Hardware Stores
Hours
Mon:8-21
Tue:8-21
Wed:8-21
Thu:8-21
Fri:8-21
Sat:8-21
Sun:9-18
Store Features
Mon:8-21
Tue:8-21
Wed:8-21
Thu:8-21
Fri:8-21
Sat:8-21
Sun:9-18

Vernon - Sears Hardware Stores
(860) 870-4000
10 Pitkin Rd
Vernon Rockvl, CT
Store Hours
Hardware Stores
Store Type
Hardware Stores
Hours
Mon:8-21
Tue:8-21
Wed:8-21
Thu:8-21
Fri:8-21
Sat:8-21
Sun:9-18
Store Features
Mon:8-21
Tue:8-21
Wed:8-21
Thu:8-21
Fri:8-21
Sat:8-21
Sun:9-18

Data Provided by:

Making Cathedral Doors

Making Cathedral Doors

A complete recipe for making beautiful cathedral raised-panel doors.

by George Vondriska

Cathedral raised-panel doors are beautiful, but they can be intimidating to make. After many years of teaching students how to make these doors, I’ve got a trick or two up my sleeve to simplify the process and remove some of the fear factor. Here’s a tried-and-true recipe to help you safely and successfully make beautiful doors.

There are a few specialized tools you must have to make cathedral doors. Start with a suitable router table. It should be equipped with a 2-hp or higher variable-speed router that accepts 1/2-in.-shank router bits. You’ll also need a bandsaw or jigsaw for cutting the curves and a set of door-making router bits. The bits and a template set will set you back nearly $400, but they are a big part of what makes this technique airtight. The good news is the router bits are not specific to cathedral-top doors; they can be used to make any frame-and-panel door.

You’ll need a two-piece matched rail-and-stile set (about $135) to make the frame. It’s easier to get good results with a two-piece set than with a one-piece reversible bit. With a two-piece set, you feed all the pieces face down. Reversible bits use one arbor with removable cutters. Some parts are machined face up, others face down. This often results in poor alignment between rails and stiles. Plus, it’s a hassle to have to change cutters on the arbor. Bits with a 1/2-in. shank will produce less chatter and a smoother cut than those with 1/4-in. shank. 


First, cut all the frame pieces (see “Sizing a Door, below”). For a good-looking, stable door, make the frame from straight-grained wood. 

Next, on your router table, set up the end-grain cutter for machining the rail ends. Cutting end grain before long grain helps prevent blow-out on the rails. Here’s a memory device for you: Machine the Rails before the Stiles, because R comes before S in the alphabet.

Mark the back of all the frame pieces. They get machined with their good faces down, so you should be looking at the mark on the back for all the cuts.

Note: Run the end-grain and long-grain cutters at full speed on your router.

Photo 1: Set the height of the end-grain cutter against a test piece in the coping sled. The cut should leave a shoulder on top of the piece that’s twice as thick as the lip on the bottom (see Photo 4). You can tweak the height after a test cut. 

Photo 2: Set the fence even with the face of the ball bearing. A straightedge makes quick work of this job.

Photo 3: Make a test cut, but don’t cut all the way through the test piece. You don’t want to cut into the backer block until the bit height is perfect. That way, the block can be used to quickly set the bit height the next time you make doors.

Click here to read the rest of the article from American Woodworker