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Making Cathedral Doors Tuscumbia AL

There are a few specialized tools you must have to make cathedral doors. Start with a suitable router table. It should be equipped with a 2-hp or higher variable-speed router that accepts 1/2-in.-shank router bits. You’ll also need a bandsaw or jigsaw for cutting the curves and a set of door-making router bits.

The Home Depot
(256)764-5037
351 Seville Street
Florence, AL
Hours
Mon-Sat: 7:00am-9:00pm
Sun: 8:00am-7:00pm

LOWE'S OF MUSCLE SHOALS, ALA.
256 314-0334
3415 WOODWARD AVENUE MUSCLE SHOALS, AL, 35661
Muscle Shoals, AL
 
Lowe's
(256) 314-0334
3415 Woodward Avenue
Muscle Shoals, AL
Hours
M-SA 7 am - 9 pm
SU 8 am - 7 pm

Ford City Ace Hardware
(256) 446-9729
14497 County Line Rd
Muscle Shoals, AL
 
Kmart 3848 / Cross Merch
(256) 764-2223
105 Cox Creek Pkwy S
Florence, AL
Store Hours
Miscellaneous
Store Type
Miscellaneous
Hours
Monday To Friday Working Hours is :0-0 and for Sat:0-0
Sun:0-0
Store Features
Monday To Friday Working Hours is :0-0 and for Sat:0-0
Sun:0-0

Southern Fastening Systems- Muscle Shoals
256-381-3628
635 Fairgrounds Rd. Muscle Shoals, AL, 35662
Muscle Shoals, AL
 
Fastenal- Muscle Shoals
256-383-9901
2300 East 2nd Street Muscle Shoals, AL, 35661
Muscle Shoals, AL
 
Muscle Shoals - D
(256) 383-7716
3401 Woodward Ave
Muscle Shoals, AL
Store Hours
Miscellaneous
Store Type
Miscellaneous
Hours
Mon:8-22
Tue:8-22
Wed:8-22
Thu:8-22
Fri:8-22
Sat:8-22
Sun:8-21
Store Features
Mon:8-22
Tue:8-22
Wed:8-22
Thu:8-22
Fri:8-22
Sat:8-22
Sun:8-21

Fastenal- Florence
256-764-0183
4326 Helton Drive Florence, AL, 35630
Florence, AL
 
LOWE'S OF FLORENCE, ALA.
256 764-7887
130 COX CREEK PKWY SOUTH FLORENCE, AL, 35630
Florence, AL
 

Making Cathedral Doors

Making Cathedral Doors

A complete recipe for making beautiful cathedral raised-panel doors.

by George Vondriska

Cathedral raised-panel doors are beautiful, but they can be intimidating to make. After many years of teaching students how to make these doors, I’ve got a trick or two up my sleeve to simplify the process and remove some of the fear factor. Here’s a tried-and-true recipe to help you safely and successfully make beautiful doors.

There are a few specialized tools you must have to make cathedral doors. Start with a suitable router table. It should be equipped with a 2-hp or higher variable-speed router that accepts 1/2-in.-shank router bits. You’ll also need a bandsaw or jigsaw for cutting the curves and a set of door-making router bits. The bits and a template set will set you back nearly $400, but they are a big part of what makes this technique airtight. The good news is the router bits are not specific to cathedral-top doors; they can be used to make any frame-and-panel door.

You’ll need a two-piece matched rail-and-stile set (about $135) to make the frame. It’s easier to get good results with a two-piece set than with a one-piece reversible bit. With a two-piece set, you feed all the pieces face down. Reversible bits use one arbor with removable cutters. Some parts are machined face up, others face down. This often results in poor alignment between rails and stiles. Plus, it’s a hassle to have to change cutters on the arbor. Bits with a 1/2-in. shank will produce less chatter and a smoother cut than those with 1/4-in. shank. 


First, cut all the frame pieces (see “Sizing a Door, below”). For a good-looking, stable door, make the frame from straight-grained wood. 

Next, on your router table, set up the end-grain cutter for machining the rail ends. Cutting end grain before long grain helps prevent blow-out on the rails. Here’s a memory device for you: Machine the Rails before the Stiles, because R comes before S in the alphabet.

Mark the back of all the frame pieces. They get machined with their good faces down, so you should be looking at the mark on the back for all the cuts.

Note: Run the end-grain and long-grain cutters at full speed on your router.

Photo 1: Set the height of the end-grain cutter against a test piece in the coping sled. The cut should leave a shoulder on top of the piece that’s twice as thick as the lip on the bottom (see Photo 4). You can tweak the height after a test cut. 

Photo 2: Set the fence even with the face of the ball bearing. A straightedge makes quick work of this job.

Photo 3: Make a test cut, but don’t cut all the way through the test piece. You don’t want to cut into the backer block until the bit height is perfect. That way, the block can be used to quickly set the bit height the next time you make doors.

Click here to read the rest of the article from American Woodworker