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Woodworking Shows New Castle IN

Using a 3/16-in. slot-cutting bit, rout grooves for splines in all the stiles and rails (Photo 2, Fig. A, Parts F1-F3 and S1-S4). All the grooves have the same offset, a 5/16-in. lip at the front and a 1/4-in. lip at the back (Fig. A, Detail 3). The front frame stiles (F1) and the front side frame stiles (S1) receive two slots.

Ace Hardware
(765) 529-3002
441 S Memorial Dr
New Castle, IN
 
New Castle - Auth Hometown
(765) 529-2958
3005 South 14Th St
New Castle, IN
Store Hours
Hometown Dealers
Store Type
Hometown Dealers
Hours
Mon:9-18
Tue:9-18
Wed:9-18
Thu:9-18
Fri:9-18
Sat:9-18
Sun:12-17
Store Features
Mon:9-18
Tue:9-18
Wed:9-18
Thu:9-18
Fri:9-18
Sat:9-18
Sun:12-17

Shumaker Electric Co.
(765) 378-7212
9044 S County Rd 800 West
Daleville, IN
 
The Home Depot
(317)468-6820
2055 Barrett Drive
Greenfield, IN
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-9:00pm
Sun: 8:00am-8:00pm

The Home Depot
(317)780-8881
4850 E Southport Rd
Indianapolis, IN
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-10:00pm
Sun: 8:00am-8:00pm

Fastenal- New Castle
765-521-2223
508 Broad Street New Castle, IN, 47362
New Castle, IN
 
Shirley Hardware
(765) 738-6415
313 Main St
Shirley, IN
 
Gillman Home Center
(765) 855-2600
7138 W Us Hwy 40
Centerville, IN
 
Marwood, Inc (See our website for monthly veneer special offers)
(812) 288-8344
2901 Hamburg Pike
Jeffersonville, IN

Data Provided by:
The Home Depot
(812)482-3533
4250 Newton Street
Jasper, IN
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-9:00pm
Sun: 8:00am-7:00pm

Data Provided by:

Showcase

Showcase

View your treasures from every angle.

by Luke Hartle

Download the PDF.

Any collection you want to display, from fish fossils to Baccarat crystal will look great inside this cabinet. It allows unobstructed viewing from the front because the doors are on the sides. The doors themselves are frameless glass to maximize the side views. Inside, the mirrored back presents views from still another perspective, and glass shelves allow the built-in lighting to filter throughout the cabinet.

This showcase features 12-in.-deep shelves, graceful proportions and slender stiles and rails that elegantly frame the display area. It’s built with spline joinery that’s both simple and strong. I made the crown molding with new dedicated router bits that do an impressive job. 

Glass is easily the most expensive component of this project—I spent about $625, including $40 to bevel the arched front panel. This piece and the side doors are tempered glass, for safety. The seven glass shelves aren’t tempered. The cabinet requires only 25 bd. ft. of 4/4 lumber, so I splurged on genuine mahogany. My total cost, including the hardware and lighting, was about $1000. 

Build The Frames

The cabinet’s basic structure consists of three frames joined together. The frames and the cabinet must all be square so the glass will fit.

1. Rip the boards for the frame stiles about 1/4-in. oversize in width (Photo 1). To prevent headaches when installing the glass it’s important for all the stiles to be straight and flat. Let these pieces sit overnight to stabilize.  Then joint and gang-plane them to final width. 

Photo 1: Start by cutting the stiles for the three frames that form the cabinet. Rip these pieces oversize in width. The extra width allows you to straighten pieces that develop a crook.

2.   Using a 3/16-in. slot-cutting bit, rout grooves for splines in all the stiles and rails (Photo 2, Fig. A, Parts F1-F3 and S1-S4). All the grooves have the same offset, a 5/16-in. lip at the front and a 1/4-in. lip at the back (Fig. A, Detail 3). The front frame stiles (F1) and the front side frame stiles (S1) receive two slots.  

Photo 2: Rout grooves for splines in the stiles and rails. Most of the stiles have more than one groove. All the grooves are routed from the same setting. 

3. Cut the arch on the front frame top rail (F2) and sand it smooth.

4.   Cut the splines (F4) by ripping pieces slightly oversize in thickness and then planing them to fit the grooves. 

5.   Assemble the front and side frames. After the glue is dry, trim flush any splines that protrude.  

6.   Rout rabbets in the frames for the glass (Photo 3 and Fig. A, Detail 3).  The rabbets go on the back of the front frame and on the front of the side frames. The spline grooves that you’ve routed automatically define the depths of all the rabbets.

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