American Woodworker
Contact Us | Help | Report a Bug
Sign in | Join
 
» » »

Tips for Mastering Featherboards Canby OR

The safest way to make featherboards is on the bandsaw using a simple sled with a miter slot runner. Cut a 30-degree angle on one end of the featherboard blank first. Mark a parallel line about 2-1/2 in. from the angled end.

The Home Depot
(503)723-3181
2002 Washington Street
Oregon City, OR
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-10:00pm
Sun: 7:00am-8:00pm

Woodcraft - Portland, OR
(503) 684-1428
12020 SW Main Street
Tigard, OR

Data Provided by:
The Home Depot
(503)469-4242
4401 Southwest 110th Ave
Beaverton, OR
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-10:00pm
Sun: 7:00am-8:00pm

Woodcrafters
(800) 777-3709
212 NE 6th Ave
Portland, OR

Data Provided by:
Canby Ace Hardware
(503) 263-2500
1061 SW 1st Ave, Safeway Center on 99E
Canby, OR
 
The Home Depot
(503)925-8447
20260 SW Pacific Hwy
Sherwood, OR
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-10:00pm
Sun: 7:00am-8:00pm

The Home Depot
(503)639-3500
14800 SW Sequoia Parkway
Tigard, OR
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-10:00pm
Sun: 7:00am-8:00pm

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware #17
(503) 672-7266
Beaverton Town Square Mall
Beaverton (Portland), OR

Data Provided by:
The Home Depot
(503)261-8543
10120 SE Washington St
Portland, OR
Hours
Mon-Sat: 6:00am-10:00pm
Sun: 7:00am-8:00pm

Wilco Farm Stores - Canby
(503) 266-2213
195 S Hazel Dell Way
Canby, OR
 
Data Provided by:

Tips for Mastering Featherboards

Tips for Mastering Featherboards

Featherboards are like having an extra set of hands in the shop, going where no fıngers ever should.

by Jock and Susan Holmen

The featherboard  gets its name from the rows of flexible “fingers” that act like a bird’s feather and give way in one direction only. They help ensure safety and accuracy, because they keep consistent pressure on stock where it’s needed most, close to the cut. They’re indispensable for eliminating bumps on a molded edge or uneven bottoms in rabbets and dadoes. 

Shop-made featherboards are often superior to commercial ones, because they can be custom fit to your machines and they cost next to nothing. All the featherboards in this article were made from the type of scrap lumber and plywood that can be found in any shop. 

Perfect Pressure Every Time

Positioning a featherboard can be a pain. Too close to the fence or table and the squeeze is so tight you can barely feed the stock. Too loose and you’ve lost effectiveness. Try taking about 1/8 in. off the first feather. Set that end against the stock you plan to machine and clamp the featherboard parallel to the table’s fence. The pressure should automatically be just right. 


Featherboards Made Easy

The safest way to make featherboards is on the bandsaw using a simple sled with a miter slot runner. Cut a 30-degree angle on one end of the featherboard blank first. Mark a parallel line about 2-1/2 in. from the angled end. Set the blank on the sled and make the first cut from the end to the line. Then, slide the featherboard over to the next mark to make the second cut and continue across the board’s width.

A feather length of about 2-1/2 in. with cuts made every 1/8 in. provides the right balance between flexibility (for firm pressure without being too stiff) and strength (so the feathers won’t snap off) for most hardwoods or multi-ply birch. Increase the feather spacing to 3/16-in. when you are using softer woods, such as pine or basswood, or regular hardwood plywood. You can always fine-tune the length and spacing to suit your own needs. 


Tall Support for Tall Stock

A tall featherboard can apply pressure against the entire height of the fence. It’s especially useful for holding tall, narrow stock—for instance, a door panel—against a fence. Just glue some scraps to create a block that is as tall as your fence is. Then, cut the feathers on your bandsaw sled.


Bit-Bridging Featherboard

This wraparound featherboard produces chatter-free moldings, because it provides continuous pressure ahead of and behind the cutter. Cut a 2-in. arc in the end of the blank before you cut the feathers. 


Guaranteed Square Edges

Click here to read the rest of the article from American Woodworker