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Wood Edging on Laminated Tops Ames IA

To trim off a whisker, try this: With the miter saw off, drop the blade down and push the mitered end of the edging up against the teeth with enough pressure to ever so slightly deflect the blade. With a tight hold on the edging, raise the blade back up.

Lowe's
(515) 233-0404
120 Airport Rd.
Ames, IA
Hours
M-SA 6:30 am - 10 pm
SU 8 am - 8 pm

Kmart 3971 / Cross Merch
(515) 232-7554
1405 Buckeye Ave
Ames, IA
Store Hours
Miscellaneous
Store Type
Miscellaneous
Hours
Mon:8-22
Tue:8-22
Wed:8-22
Thu:8-22
Fri:8-22
Sat:8-22
Sun:8-21
Store Features
Mon:8-22
Tue:8-22
Wed:8-22
Thu:8-22
Fri:8-22
Sat:8-22
Sun:8-21

O'Donnell Ace Hardware
(515) 232-1791
615 24th St
Ames, IA
 
True Value
(515) 733-4061
614-616 Broad St
Story City, IA
 
True Value
(800) 642-7392
614 Broad St
Story City, IA

Data Provided by:
Fastenal- Ames
515-232-4768
2228 SE 5th Street Ames, IA, 50010
Ames, IA
 
LOWE'S OF AMES, IOWA
515 233-0404
120 AIRPORT RD. AMES, IA, 50010
Ames, IA
 
Nevada Ace Hardware
(515) 382-2184
123 Lincoln Hwy
Nevada, IA
 
Boone Ace Hardware
(515) 432-3543
1735 S East Marshall
Boone, IA
 
Scandinavian Woodshop /Sawmill
(515) 548-3449
2835 Baxter Avenue
Somers, IA

Data Provided by:
Data Provided by:

Wood Edging on Laminated Tops

Wood Edging on Laminated Tops

5 steps to align and finish wood edging on a plastic-laminated surface.

by Bruce Kieffer

Most woodworkers cringe at the thought of applying wood edging to a plastic-laminated top. Unlike wood veneer surfaces, you can’t sand this edging flush without scratching the laminate. Over the years, I’ve discovered a few tricks of the trade that will help you avoid messy glue-ups and misaligned edging. 

Even after you’ve successfully applied the trim, you still face a woodworking conundrum: applying finish to the wood edge but not the laminate. I found a special automotive masking tape that works better than I could imagine. Applying any type of finish is now fast and clean. Just follow these easy steps for a clean-looking, hassle-free top. 

Cutting the Miters

The first hurdle is to cut your edging pieces’ mitered corners to fit exactly—you can’t get away with being a hair short or long. Start with the two long trim pieces. Use a short piece of edging with a mitered end to test-fit the long pieces. Leave the end pieces about 1/16 in. long; they’ll be trimmed to fit later. Finish-sand the top edges of the edging pieces before you glue them on. You don’t want to sand the top of the trim after it’s applied and risk scratching the laminate. After the long runs are glued in place, you can cut and fit the end pieces for airtight miters. 

Photo 1: Use biscuits to avoid alignment nightmares. You’ll never have a wood edge dip below the laminate surface if you cut the slots so the wood edge sets just a smidgen above the laminated top. To do this, cut the slots in the wood edging first. Then use the same setting with a sheet of paper under the fence to cut the slots in the laminated top. Use No. 20 biscuits and set the slots 4 in. to 6 in. apart. 

Photo 2: Glue on one piece of edging at a time. Glue-up disasters often result from attempts to glue everything at once. Start with the long edging pieces. After they’re set, trim the mitered end pieces for an exact fit (see Photo 3). To eliminate squeeze-out on the laminate surface, apply glue only to the inside of the biscuit slots and a bead along the edge below the biscuits. 

Photo 3: The end pieces are cut slightly oversize and then trimmed to create a tight joint. To trim off a whisker, try this: With the miter saw off, drop the blade down and push the mitered end of the edging up against the teeth with enough pressure to ever so slightly deflect the blade. With a tight hold on the edging, raise the blade back up. Turn the saw on and slowly make the cut. This will take the lightest shaving off the end and allow you to work your way to the perfect fit. 

Photo 4: Get a clean crisp finish line using 3M’s Scotch Fine Line Tape (see Source, page 62). This is truly a “magic” masking tape!

Click here to read the rest of the article from American Woodworker